When I arrived in Kathmandu, I was thrust into outrageous poverty, unruly traffic, goats, potholes, dust, and a portion of the population in their vibrant diversity. Immediately after getting my entry visa I was scooped up by an airport employee (I hope) who grabbed my luggage and pulled me past some 50 people in the security line to a another airport official who asked simply, "are these your bags?" I said yes and he waved me thru. Of course, the bag snatcher wanted a nice tip for getting me in front of the line. I realized then that I had start thinking fast on my feet to navigate a place where everyone looks at you and sees dollar bills.
My pre-paid taxi driver was called, KT. He threw my bags in the back of a car that looked like it was made in the 1950's and flew me up windy roads. After 24 hours of plane travel, I actually enjoyed the daring ride with my life on solid ground. When I mentioned to him that in the U.S. we have lines that the cars stay inside, he replied, "If you follow lines it will take 2 hours to get where you are going. " I laughed. I couldn't argue.
The intensity of Kathmandu hit me so hard that I just observed in a mild disbelief. It's sensory overload. When we arrived at the gates of the
International Buddhist Acadmy (IBA), they immediately were opened by a gate guard who appeared out of nowhere. We drove into the courtyard and into incredibly peaceful energy that felt as if I had just been transported to another dimension. Out walked a Tibetan Buddhist monk, who I later found out was Rinchen, originally from New Jersey. Small world.
They sat me down with some hot Nepali sweet tea and I waited for the registrar to arrive as I looked for something that felt mildly familiar..nothing. Wow. I'm here. I chatted with a student from France for a while and after being registered was introduced to the room that shall be my respite for the next 2 months.
I have an awesome view from my room and I took photos immediately. The area of town I'm in is called, Boudha which is the Tibetan Buddhist enclave with the largely Hindu Kathmandu. There are monasteries all over the place and there is one a stones through from my bedroom. It's now my official wakeup call..a 4:30am wakeup call. In addition to the the sounds of traffic, children, birds and barking dogs, the monastery provides a soundtrack of gongs, chimes, and Tibetan music. Every morning at 4:30 the gong begins it's stream of vibration. I've realized it's almost impossible NOT to be a morning person in this country. I guess you'd have to try really hard. Double earplugs perhaps.
My jet-lag has been really bad and the second day in I slept 14 hours and still find that my body clock isn't totally reset yet. The first 2 days I spent unpacking, meeting fellow students (it took me exactly 5 minutes to find another who practices Ashtanga Yoga), shopping for some basic needs, getting my bearings and sleeping, sleeping, sleeping.
Yesterday was the first day of classes. In short, my introduction to Madhyamikya Philosophy with Khenpo Dr. Ngawang Jorden makes me feel as if I've landed in philosophical paradise. In addition to him, I'm surrounded by people who love philosophy and love talking about dualism and non-dualism; Buddhist vs. Hindu philosophy, scripture translations over lunch. YES!
I found the nerve to get up and ask Khenpo a question on our review class the first day. To be able to have his knowledge at my disposal for the next 2 months is largely why I came here. He is so detailed in his lectures that on the first day we only covered 1 1/2 pages on the first day. Today was pretty much the same. Slow going but the material requires it. There are so many layers and contexts to be understood.
The protocol for class is that you arrive at least 5 minutes early to the shrine room and do 3 prostrations to the Buddha if you wish. When the teacher enters you stand and bow your head until he reaches the front of the room. He then does 3 prostrations and most of the students do them again along with him. We then recite The Heart Sutra in Tibetan (yeah, working on that one) and several other prayers to other gurus. We then meditate for a few minutes that he marks with a gong and he begins to lecture. Good stuff.
When we have our revision class in the afternoon we do the same thing (minus prayers) and he summarizes the morning teaching and the floor is open for questions for him to answer. There are 2 microphones set up so you have to stand and walk to one to ask him. The overall energy is really great. The energy is of genuine interest and love and it's great to see such a diverse student body all come to study dharma.
I also started Tibetan language class yesterday taught by a spunky, modern Tibetan gal who knows how to use an hour and cover a lot of material leaving me at least, feeling totally overwhelmed. Tibetan IS NOT GOING TO BE EASY. But I'm going to give it my best. It requires at least 1 hour of additional study a day.
I'm back to the mat and it feels so fantastic. Thank You Ashtanga Yoga! Of course I'm practicing on a paper thick travel yoga mat that has amazing grip but no cushion to speak of. It will take some time to adapt since I'm practicing on stone floor.
This is what my schedule is looking like:
7am Breakfast
8am Philosophy Class
9:30 Tea Break
10:00 Tibetan Language
11:00 open
12:00 Lunch
1:00-2:15 Study
2:30 Philosophy Review Class
3:30-6:30-Yoga, Shower, Chill
6:30 Dinner
Evenings are for meditation, homework and laughs
*Mondays are days off. Sundays there is no Revision class.
I did venture out one day to see the grand Boudhanath Stupa but it was on route to buy some necessities and I didn't meander. When I head back into town again I'll be sure to take more photos and post soon.
Well, more later!
Peace
Sati